In recent years, this sprawling wine region north of Madrid has challenged Rioja as the preeminent source of great Tempranillo wines. In fact, Wine Enthusiast declared it the "Wine Region of the Year" in 2012.
Madrid is bordered to the south by the region (in Spain, “Autonomous Community”) of La Mancha and to the north by Castile and León. The former is the largest continuous wine growing region in the world with 22,000 grape growers and 300 wineries. But for the best quality wines, head north. Castile and León boast a handful of wine regions, but Ribera del Duero is the best known and for good reason. Numerous top producers can be found here, including the undisputed king of Spanish wines, Unico Gran Reserva produced by Bodegas Vega Sicilia. Actually…nothing in the world of wine is completely undisputed. But Unico is certainly at the pinnacle of Spanish wines.
Like most of Spain’s wine regions, Tempranillo dominates with many wines containing 100% of the varietal. Blending grapes include Bordeaux varietals but are used sparingly. The vineyards of Ribera del Duero (and much of northern Spain) are ideal for Tempranillo with minimal rainfall, rocky soils and vines that are often many decades old. These conditions minimize yields and amplify quality.
To visit Ribera del Duero, you have a couple of options. You can day trip from Madrid or stay locally for a few days. The town of Valladolid is in the far east of the region and offers dozens of wineries within a 30-45 minute drive. Note that there aren’t many “drop in” tastings available. It is best to plan ahead and make reservations.
If you want to day trip this wine region, you might consider booking a tour originating in Madrid. Your day will involve quite a bit of driving—this isn’t Napa! Of course, a designated driver is recommended if you drive it yourself. Expect about 1 ½ to 2 hours from Madrid to the heart of Ribera del Duero wine country.
A pleasant stop to break up your trip is the charming town of Segovia, about an hour’s drive north of Madrid. Here you will find a remarkably well preserved 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct that towers almost 100 feet above the town. Be sure to visit the Alcázar of Segovia, a stunning medieval castle that was the inspiration for Disney’s Cinderella castle. If it is lunchtime, don’t miss the traditional local dish known as Cochinillo Asado, available at practically all the restaurants. Suckling pig is roasted whole using only salt and oil. The skin is crispy while the meat is very tender and delicious. Of course, you’ll pair that with a local Tempranillo!
Continuing north in the vicinity of Valladolid, you may consider a visit to Bodegas Y Vinedos Arbás, a small winery with a big heart. The proprietor and winemaker is Jesus Arbás and his passion for wines is contagious. Because it is a small operation you will certainly want to make a reservation and avoid visiting during the crush, when all hands are busy!
Your visit will include a generous tasting through their lineup of 100% Tempranillo wines including the flagship, Rond de Jambe. You’ll likely also be offered some tasty Seranno ham, olives and other typical snacks to pair with the tasting. Incidentally, Rond de Jambe is named for a twirling dance move common to Spanish ballet and the connection to dance doesn’t end with that label. Jesus’ wife is Mayte Bajo, a renowned professional dancer of considerable fame throughout Spain. Your tasting will include a visit to a small theater/museum of sorts with a wide range of memorabilia from her career.
From here, travel east through the heart of the wine region. There are a large number of wineries along the main east/west highway (A-11). About an hour out you will approach the main north/south highway that leads back to Madrid (A-1). If you haven’t worn out your palate, consider a stop at Bodegas Ismael Arroyo before heading south.
Proprietor Ismael is one of the founders of the Ribera del Duero region back in 1982. But wine-making in his family dates back for centuries. Their flagship lineup of Tempranillo is bottled under the Valsotillo label with the pinnacle being their Gran Reserva that is only produced in the best of years. The winery includes fantastic cellars that were carved out 400 years ago and sprawl under the property. Allow about an hour for a tour of the winery and cellars along with a tasting of 3 wines.
And now Madrid awaits you about 2 hours to the south. (Recall our recommendation of a designated driver?) Not to worry, though, as dinner time in Madrid starts about 9pm. Plenty of time to grab a nap, then head out for tapas and, of course, another glass of Ribera del Duero Tempranillo!
Note: The 2nd, 3rd and 4th photos in this blog were graciously provided by a good friend of Vine Memories, renowned photographer Barry Benton. See www.bentondowns.com.